00:18 - Hi, folks.

00:18 - I'm Nick Duvall, owner and master craftsman of Duvall Leather Work.

00:23 - We're here today

00:23 - in our Hanover, Pennsylvania, Hanover Township, Pennsylvania.

00:26 - Artisan workshop to explore all of our tools, our equipment,

00:31 - our process, and people that make all the wonderful leather products that we make.

00:35 - Okay, so we're in the, back portion of our artisan workshop.

00:39 - We are going to cut all of the leather components

00:42 - that are required to make one of our bifold wallets.

00:46 - We're going to make a deluxe Bifold.

00:47 - Today, the deluxe portion will have a little ID window that flaps over the top.

00:52 - A special treat for you.

00:53 - Here is that I'm going to use, one of our most popular selling

00:57 - wallets, which includes, bison leather and cowhide.

01:02 - Both pieces of leather are tanned in America

01:04 - and are of wonderful quality.

01:08 - Okay, so the, first,

01:11 - step here is that we're going to lay out our bison leather.

01:14 - So you can see

01:18 - the size of this.

01:19 - This would be

01:22 - half of the bison.

01:25 - So this leather is tanned by law

01:28 - tanning in, Milwaukee, Wisconsin.

01:31 - Comes from either native bison that are raised or Canadian bison.

01:36 - So, as you can see in the piece here, this would be the butt of the animal.

01:40 - And this would be the head of the animal.

01:42 - All leather is produced for process of meat.

01:45 - There is nothing to do with

01:48 - taking this hide from an animal just for it's leather.

01:51 - It's always about the meat first and the leather is second.

01:54 - You can see the beautiful color in this.

01:56 - This is done by the tannery too.

01:58 - They make many different colors.

01:59 - But this is something we find very, very appealing.

02:02 - You can see the distress marks in it that comes from the animal's natural life.

02:07 - And bison hat typically have, their hides are not as perfect as cattle.

02:11 - They do have some scars. Mars imperfections.

02:13 - They live pretty harsh lives, and their hides show it.

02:17 - And so to pair with this, then, because this leather is a little bit soft,

02:21 - we're going to use a piece of cowhide, which is specially made

02:24 - for us as well too.

02:25 - So this is only half of the piece.

02:28 - the other half would be much longer, but we have them cut, so it's easier

02:31 - for us to work on the machines that we're going to be dealing with here.

02:34 - So you can see the cowhide, the bison leather together.

02:38 - Going to make a really nice combination going to make a beautiful wallet.

02:42 - Okay.

02:43 - So we're going to cut the, wallet out here with our machine.

02:45 - This machine is called a clicker.

02:47 - It's very basic.

02:48 - Up and down hydraulic pressure.

02:51 - just about every shoe company,

02:54 - anything that cuts leather, plastic farm has one of these in it.

02:59 - so in conjunction with this machine.

03:04 - We're going to use a dye set.

03:06 - Okay.

03:07 - These dyes are custom made for our products.

03:12 - each shape,

03:14 - every little detail goes into it.

03:17 - They're not super sharp because the machine presses down

03:20 - with between about 20 and 25 tons of pressure.

03:23 - So it'll cut right through the leather. No problem.

03:25 - So the first thing we're going to do here is we're

03:26 - gonna cut out the cover of our wallet that we're going to make here today.

03:34 - So we're going to get our bison

03:35 - leather in place.

03:43 - So this piece has already been cut in two.

03:44 - So we're going to select a nice little area.

04:00 - Simple as that.

04:21 - Okay.

04:21 - Next, we're going to use our cowhide to cut all the pockets and the inside pieces.

04:26 - So, as you can see from the last piece of leather,

04:29 - which is rather soft, we have this leather prepared for us.

04:34 - Firm.

04:35 - So we want our pockets in the insides of the wallet

04:39 - to be a firmer leather so that it holds itself up and is not. So,

04:44 - unsafely.

04:46 - So in order to do this, we're going to use the same thing.

04:49 - We're going to select an area and we're going to start to cut.

04:56 - So these pockets will be our first piece

04:58 - that we'll cut here.

05:12 - And you can see the.

05:15 - The cutting action here

05:18 - exactly how it goes.

05:19 - So for this wallet we need.

05:23 - Six pockets.

05:27 - And so we'll cut this stuff too.

05:28 - We're very thoughtful about where we are.

05:30 - So I have a hole in the in the leather here.

05:32 - I have a hole in the leather here.

05:34 - I'm going to match my pieces up pretty close here.

05:41 - It's truly about

05:43 - maximum yield.

05:44 - How much you're going to get per piece of leather.

05:48 - Every piece of leather is different.

06:07 - Okay, now we're done with our pockets.

06:21 - So you can see literally very little waist.

06:32 - Next is our pocket backer.

06:33 - This will be used for our,

06:39 - stiffener to hold the pockets in place.

06:44 - This will cut two at once.

06:48 - So, to make the dies more efficient, sometimes we have them made to that.

06:52 - They'll cut two pieces at one time.

07:01 - Next, we're going to need a portion

07:02 - for our ID window.

07:09 - So here we got a

07:10 - a little imperfection in a leather, some sort of crack.

07:13 - It happens all the time.

07:15 - Leather is a very tricky substance.

07:17 - That's just

07:19 - lots of problems all over the place.

07:21 - And there's no fixing it.

07:23 - It is.

07:23 - It is what it is. And there's no.

07:27 - There's no special thing that can hide imperfections.

07:33 - Okay.

07:39 - Next piece will be our ID window.

07:46 - In a normal cutting situation, we would probably use the leather

07:50 - differently in a more effective manner.

07:53 - However, this piece here,

07:56 - we're just cutting out one for today.

08:01 - So this is a pretty complex die to.

08:04 - You can see it's a shape within a shape.

08:06 - This is where the plastic ID window will be for our wallet.

08:10 - We're left over with a small piece of leather.

08:13 - We recycle and upcycle these into,

08:16 - hat patches for, hats.

08:26 - Next, we have our inside body.

08:31 - So I got a weird little section here.

08:33 - I think we'll cut here.

08:34 - We got a whole.

08:38 - So this will fit pretty nicely in the space.

08:44 - I also have another small piece I'd like to cut at the same time as.

08:47 - See if I can fit it.

08:54 - Looks like I can.

09:09 - So here we got around the hole.

09:10 - Again, leather is full of all kinds of things,

09:13 - but we cut around that pretty easily for ourselves.

09:16 - This is our reinforcement band for the inside of the wallet.

09:32 - Trim up our leather.

09:45 - And that concludes the cutting of all the pieces that are required

09:48 - for our men's bifold wallet.

09:52 - Okay, so this is a band knife splitter.

09:55 - we've cut our pieces for our wallet.

09:56 - However, the bison leather is a little bit thick for what we need.

10:01 - So we're going to use this this machine here.

10:03 - Again, it's called a band knife splitter.

10:05 - Inside of this machine is a very large metal band.

10:10 - You can see here on the side of the wall.

10:11 - I have replaced one about two years ago because it cracked.

10:16 - it's an unbelievably complicated machine to do the simplest thing.

10:19 - Think of it as a planar, except for leather,

10:22 - and it's using one big knife blade inside to go through.

10:25 - So it sharpens itself.

10:27 - What we're going to do

10:27 - here is split this piece of leather down to its desired thickness.

10:31 - Okay.

10:32 - So we'll gauge this piece here.

10:34 - It's in about 5.5oz thick.

10:55 - And so that quick

10:57 - splits the leather down to about 4.5oz,

11:00 - which is the desired weight that we want for this, for this wallet.

11:05 - Okay.

11:05 - So now comes the time we're going to stamp the logo into the wallet.

11:10 - We're at our hot foil stamping machine here.

11:12 - So one pocket we'll go into our template.

11:19 - Template goes into the machine.

11:20 - And then we'll use a small piece of foil.

11:27 - In. Reveals a really nice

11:40 - crisp stamp probably made in Pennsylvania.

11:47 - Okay, so we're back here in my, workshop.

11:49 - We're going to assemble all the pieces that we have cut earlier.

11:53 - You can see now the clear difference on this nice light colored table,

11:56 - our cowhide pieces, these are the insides of the wallet.

12:00 - And here we have our bison leather.

12:02 - Leather cover.

12:03 - so to start this all off, the first thing that we're going to need to do is apply

12:07 - glue tape to all the various pieces, in preparation for assembly.

12:12 - So we'll start with our cover.

12:15 - This is our,

12:17 - reinforcement strip.

12:25 - So we'll run a piece of

12:26 - tape down the center.

12:40 - So I'm going to select my piece of leather.

12:41 - Whatever. I want to be the top of the wallet.

12:45 - So. But this up against the end.

12:52 - And the end.

12:55 - Press it down.

12:58 - Okay, piece

12:59 - now is ready for the sewing machine.

13:03 - Next, we're going to use a smaller tape.

13:06 - So we have multiple different thicknesses here.

13:08 - We have half inch quarter inch eight inch.

13:11 - So these little fine pieces get eighth inch

13:13 - pieces of tape.

13:16 - We literally make

13:19 - tens of thousands of wallets annually.

13:22 - And we go through quite a bit of tape.

13:38 - So we want to use a hammer

13:39 - just to make sure that it has good adhesion.

13:58 - You know, doing this kind of work to.

14:03 - You don't need to be super focused.

14:07 - But in our modern world,

14:09 - it's so refreshing to

14:12 - just be a craftsman and think about the work that's at hand.

14:18 - What's in front of your face?

14:19 - Not being distracted.

14:21 - Looking at every little detail of how you make something.

15:16 - Sometimes when you're making stuff like this to.

15:20 - It's interesting to think about

15:22 - how many pieces of leather I've probably touched in my life.

15:26 - I've been professionally working with leather for

15:31 - probably little over 20 years now.

15:38 - It's,

15:44 - Never a dull moment, that's for sure.

15:45 - With the stuff.

15:51 - It's very satisfying to make something

15:52 - and see someone using it out and about.

17:34 - Okay, so we've got

17:35 - all of our pieces here taped, prepped,

17:38 - and ready to go for assembly here on the sewing machine behind me.

17:43 - Okay, it's time to start assembling the wallet.

17:44 - Now we have all of our pieces prepped, taped, ready to go.

17:48 - Okay, so the first thing I'm going to do is set up some lines and basic things.

17:52 - So we're going to need to put a stitch line here on our top of our wallet.

17:56 - To do that.

17:58 - I'm going to bump it up against the stone.

18:01 - I know that the measurement is one inch,

18:04 - and I know that this ruler is one inch wide.

18:07 - Okay, so this will be a line for us

18:09 - to stitch on here in a few minutes.

18:12 - Next, we're going to start to assemble our pockets.

18:17 - Okay.

18:17 - So I'm going to select which side I want to be up.

18:21 - Okay.

18:22 - Inside of here too we have some stabs.

18:24 - These stabs are used to locate where we're going to place our pockets.

18:30 - So the glue tape is double sided.

18:35 - So I'm going to pluck my

18:37 - tape off the top.

18:40 - And then using the stabs that are on the wallet

18:42 - or the the wall pocket backer,

18:46 - I'm going to place.

18:50 - The pocket.

18:53 - There's no need to strike it really hard because it's

18:56 - we're just adhering it long enough for the sewing to happen.

19:00 - That's why we use glue tape instead of any kind of other

19:04 - really strong adhesive.

19:05 - There's just no no need for it.

19:14 - Okay, so the first pocket is set.

19:17 - Okay.

19:18 - And then we have one other pocket here that we're going to do as well.

19:30 - Okay.

19:30 - So we'll use the stabs that are on the backside of this portion,

19:33 - which is the window ID.

19:41 - Okay.

19:41 - So now we have three interior pockets set

19:45 - and ready to sew.

19:48 - First thing I'm going to do.

19:55 - To the machine.

21:15 - Okay, so, because this is nylon thread

21:18 - will be able to easily melt

21:21 - our threads.

21:29 - So melting it will bond.

21:34 - Bond.

21:34 - The thread.

21:43 - To the leather.

21:47 - Will not allow the stitching to come out.

22:38 - Okay.

22:39 - Everything's put together.

22:41 - Back to our station.

22:42 - Here.

22:50 - Now we're going to apply a few more pockets and things.

22:53 - So first thing we'll do here is we're going to prepare our window portion.

22:57 - So we have a plastic ID window.

23:00 - This is going to go on to the piece of leather.

23:03 - Now the leather is very flimsy because we've cut the center out of it.

23:06 - So we have a template here that holds the,

23:11 - the piece of leather in its shapely manner so that it doesn't skew the,

23:18 - the wallet piece.

23:20 - So we remove our tape.

23:29 - Okay.

23:29 - We'll stick our window down,

23:32 - and you can see now that the plastic will actually hold it.

23:35 - Hold it into place.

23:37 - Corner here.

23:37 - It's a little clip.

23:43 - Okay.

23:48 - Okay.

23:48 - Next we're going to apply our pockets onto the other portion.

23:52 - So when making our wallets our wallet pocket always goes on to the.

23:56 - If you're looking at it the right side of the wallet.

24:00 - So we'll start with it.

24:05 - So the way this pattern is made to.

24:11 - There is very little

24:14 - overlap of the pocket here to keep everything nice and flat

24:17 - so that it all comes together.

24:23 - And there's all kinds of wallets in this world.

24:26 - We prefer to just make it to

24:29 - two pockets.

24:38 - Okay.

24:38 - So now we have a non logo stamped pocket.

24:41 - We'll start in the corner.

24:48 - That's. It.

24:54 - Okay.

24:54 - So now we have the two sides of the wallet.

24:56 - Things are starting to come together.

24:57 - It's starting to look like what a wallet should be okay.

25:01 - Then the next portion here that we have is we have one more pocket for our window

25:05 - ID flap.

25:12 - It's a little detail on this wallet, too.

25:16 - Is that when a sewing machine sews.

25:21 - There's a good

25:22 - and a bad side of which side it stitches on.

25:25 - So your side would be up on the machine is typically your finish stitch.

25:29 - The underside would be a less perfect stitch.

25:33 - So in on our deluxe bifold that we make with a window ID,

25:38 - we actually stitch this side up so that when you look through the window,

25:41 - no matter what's inside of it, it looks perfect every single time.

25:44 - Okay,

25:47 - so we have a little bit

25:47 - of sewing here to do now.

25:51 - So next we're going to stitch along this side this side.

25:53 - And we have to finish our our window here.

25:56 - We have to sew the plastic on to the leather.

26:00 - Okay.

26:15 - All right.

26:15 - So now we're going to be doing some top stitching.

26:17 - So we're going to employ the use of a roller guide

26:20 - which is this thing right here.

26:22 - It has been preset to a specific distance off the edge,

26:25 - which we find to be visually appealing to our products.

26:34 - Okay.

26:34 - So we need to have a start point.

27:25 - All sewing machine

27:26 - stitching needs to start with a back tack.

27:29 - You saw me go in reverse and forward.

27:31 - Always starts

27:34 - reverse, then forward.

27:35 - And when you get to the end, you're forward already.

27:38 - You go in reverse.

27:38 - That is how you lock the stitches into place so that they don't come apart.

27:43 - Okay, so we're going to do the same thing that we did before.

27:46 - We're going to make all these stitches look nice.

27:49 - Pull the stuff together.

27:52 - So when we clip the threads too we want

27:54 - just a little bit of thread

27:58 - so that when we melt this.

28:03 - Was actually something there to

28:05 - to melt.

28:08 - You could do this on home.

28:09 - Just about on anything. It has nylon thread.

28:12 - Even if you had a tear and a piece of clothing

28:14 - or a shoe or something, you just use a lighter to.

28:17 - Now, if it were a piece of cotton, it would not.

28:20 - It wouldn't work the same way.

28:21 - But we employ

28:25 - nylon thread for this very purpose.

28:30 - Ultra strong.

28:33 - Stitches very nicely.

28:36 - This is not to be confused with thread

28:39 - that would be used for hand sewing, which is a completely different.

28:46 - Skill set, which we also do here as well too.

28:49 - However, this product does not require it.

29:23 - Okay, so there we can see

29:25 - your pieces

29:28 - in the top of our window.

29:29 - I still have the centerpiece in here.

29:30 - I'm leaving that till almost the very end here.

29:32 - Okay, so I'm gonna turn around.

29:35 - I'm gonna do one little thing.

29:38 - These can sit to the side for a moment.

29:41 - Now, I am actually going

29:42 - to remove that centerpiece.

29:50 - Okay, we need to apply

29:51 - another row of glue tape.

30:10 - Okay, so

30:11 - now we're going to apply this piece to this piece.

30:21 - Starting around on the bottom

30:24 - round at the top or at the bottom.

30:40 - That's a really nice piece.

30:42 - Okay, now we're going to use our roller.

30:43 - And we're going to stitch all the way around this piece.

30:47 - And in fact,

30:48 - while we have it there we're next going to sew.

30:51 - We need to stitch our reinforcement strip onto the base.

30:53 - And leather.

31:26 - Okay, so as you can see, the roller guide

31:28 - helped me keep a perfectly straight edge right across the top.

31:31 - Now, this one, I'm going to have to free him.

31:33 - This is where it takes a little bit of skill.

31:35 - Not that it's that hard, but it's still requires a little bit more skill than

31:41 - than the portion with the roller guide.

31:44 - So we'll remove this out of the way.

31:46 - So this machine is a compound walking foot sewing machine.

31:49 - So as you'll watch this walk,

31:51 - the feet actually move up and down helping to pull the material through.

31:55 - The one thing you have to be wary of is that this side is thicker than this side.

31:58 - So we would not want to run this like this because it would be walking awkward.

32:03 - So we want to run this so that the portion of the walking foot of the machine

32:07 - is on top of this second piece of leather here.

32:11 - So I always start out by positioning where I want my stitch to be,

32:15 - because I'm a craftsman and I want my work to be as perfect as possible.

32:19 - No matter how many of these things I have to make.

32:22 - So we're going to go our stitches forward

32:24 - stitches, and reverse.

32:43 - Okay.

32:44 - You can see here the dye is an ancient.

32:47 - And it's the line that we put on the front is one inch

32:50 - making for a perfect stitch line.

32:51 - Now you can see to how beautifully the stitches look on this side, which was up.

32:57 - And this is your secondary live stitching,

32:58 - which looks nice, but it's still not a finished piece.

33:02 - Okay.

33:03 - So I'm going to take now and clip

33:05 - and burn all of my threads.

33:12 - So if I can

33:14 - I will try to pull them into the inside of the wallet here

33:18 - so that I don't have things on the outside,

33:20 - but unfortunately this one I cannot pull through.

33:22 - It happens. Same with this side.

33:28 - This one here can be pulled in.

33:34 - So we have a little loose loop there.

33:59 - You do enough of these to.

34:00 - You know exactly how long to hold it, and then you want to press it.

34:06 - If you press it too soon,

34:08 - you'll burn yourself.

34:12 - Last one.

34:17 - Okay.

34:18 - This piece now is ready for some edge work.

34:21 - So we'll set that right there.

34:23 - Next thing we're going to do is now go back to our roller guide.

34:25 - And we're going to walk.

34:26 - Or we're going to stitch all the way around the side here okay.

34:29 - So starting up here in the top.

34:40 - Okay.

34:40 - So this machine has the ability to walk up and over things pretty easily.

34:46 - That's the difference between

34:49 - most household machines

34:52 - and truly industrial pieces of equipment.

35:06 - All the people I've taught

35:09 - how to use sewing machines, I pretty much just explained to them

35:12 - that it's as simple as it's just like driving a car.

35:15 - It's just a pedal and paying attention to your surroundings

35:18 - and how the piece of equipment is operating and.

35:23 - I always

35:25 - find it interesting that

35:28 - literally everything that surrounds our lives, from our car

35:31 - upholstery to the clothes, our shoes, our things to keep our baby safe, our,

35:37 - flags, our, you know,

35:41 - so much of our entire life is cloaked in things made by a sewing machine.

35:46 - And yet no one knows how to use a sewing machine.

35:49 - Very few people do.

35:51 - So we've stitched around the outside perimeter here.

35:55 - Okay, we're going to do some edge work on our pieces here. Now.

36:01 - Okay.

36:01 - So we've got some of our pieces sewn here.

36:03 - The whole process is really starting to come together.

36:06 - You can see that these are components of a wallet now.

36:09 - So we've gone,

36:11 - you know, full sides of leather, full pieces of leather,

36:15 - cutting the leather, preparing the leather, all the things.

36:18 - And we're really starting to come together here now.

36:20 - So the next step of this is that we need to sand some of the edges,

36:24 - and we need to do a little bit of edge work on these things

36:26 - to make them really, smooth before the final assembly.

36:29 - So first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to take our,

36:31 - our deluxe portion, our window portion, which needs a little bit of sanding.

36:34 - Just the pieces come together here.

36:36 - So I'm going to move over to the machine here and sand the edges.

36:43 - Always safety first.

37:04 - Super basic.

37:05 - Just a little touch up around the edge here has brought it all together.

37:10 - All right, so

37:12 - now we're going to prepare to slick and dye these edges.

37:16 - So the first thing we need to do is this.

37:17 - This edges.

37:19 - It's a little rough.

37:20 - So in order to fix that we're going to use a series of different edges here

37:25 - to knock off the very slight edge

37:31 - of the leather.

37:41 - This tool is.

37:45 - Just cutting as you can

37:46 - see, the tiniest little bit

37:49 - rolling over the edge of that leather just to give it a nicer feel.

37:53 - Okay, so we need to go back to our cover to.

37:56 - These pieces here are far too thin to edge,

37:59 - so we were going to leave those along this one edge nicely.

38:04 - And on this piece.

38:08 - Again we're just going to take off

38:09 - that very top leader edge.

38:17 - On both sides.

38:23 - Again I mean it's it's literally just

38:26 - paper

38:28 - okay.

38:30 - We're going to use a little leather dye.

38:46 - Case.

38:47 - The dye will help hide that

38:50 - light colored edge.

38:53 - Really?

38:53 - Just tie the whole thing together.

38:58 - This pen is brand new.

39:07 - Okay, we're going to go around the edges of this

39:10 - so you can see the light.

39:12 - Now we're going to go to the dark.

39:30 - This should be something that takes one second.

39:31 - The dye pen is so new.

39:40 - There we go.

39:42 - Okay, we're going to do this inside edge here.

39:47 - And this inside edge here.

39:52 - And we're going to do this edge here to.

39:57 - Okay.

40:00 - From here to the machine.

40:04 - Okay.

40:04 - So now instead of sanding around the edge

40:06 - we're going to use the same machine to what's called burnish or slick.

40:11 - The edge of the piece of leather to give it that desired smooth feel.

40:16 - Okay. So.

40:20 - Always safety first

40:23 - okay.

40:23 - So we use a little bit of beeswax.

40:26 - whichever.

40:27 - So we're going to be using black.

40:29 - So we'll probably stick to one of these.

40:30 - The black wheels here.

40:33 - So this piece

40:36 - essentially all this machine does is it's just really smooth.

40:39 - And it helps slick that edge

40:43 - all the way around.

40:56 - Okay.

40:56 - So you can see now probably a shine to it.

41:01 - It's really nice.

41:03 - We'll finish that by hand here.

41:06 - So you can see the difference

41:07 - between the two. Now.

41:14 - Doesn't take much.

41:15 - We just use beeswax because

41:18 - it gives a nice result.

41:19 - And we can source it locally.

41:22 - There's all kinds of agents and things you can use.

41:26 - Edge paint is something that's used quite a bit in our industry.

41:31 - We just don't see the need and doing that on a product like this.

41:34 - So maybe you can see the shine of this versus this.

41:50 - And last we're going to do this leader edge,

41:52 - which we will do again in a little bit.

42:01 - Okay.

42:08 - Okay.

42:08 - Now it's time to assemble.

42:13 - Okay.

42:13 - So we have our pieces mostly, ready for assembly here.

42:18 - We just select the edges.

42:19 - However, we are going to

42:21 - just give them a slight rub down with a piece of cloth

42:24 - and that will finish off

42:27 - any kind of little discoloration,

42:30 - markings, things of that nature.

42:33 - It'll really

42:36 - finish the the piece.

42:40 - This is just a piece

42:41 - of some sort of dense canvas.

42:44 - It looks like blue material, but it's actually canvas.

42:46 - And we apply wax to it as well.

42:49 - And it,

42:51 - to help with this process.

43:02 - So I'm getting a little bit of pressure with my index finger,

43:05 - my middle finger, just to push down on it to give it that nice edge.

43:08 - And then we need to do the top edge of the wallet here for the cover.

43:13 - And so you can see

43:15 - I've just come along here.

43:16 - You see there's like a little bit of like discoloration still that

43:20 - it didn't get any dye on. And.

43:25 - Completely gone

43:27 - the other side.

43:37 - Perfectly smooth again.

43:39 - This could have been edge painted.

43:40 - We do not take the time to do that.

43:42 - We. Instead, we use the beeswax.

43:44 - It is a very, very nice finish and lasts

43:48 - less and less.

43:48 - And it looks really nice when complete.

43:51 - So on that note, next thing we are going to complete the wallet.

43:54 - So we have our two pockets here.

43:58 - Pocket panels I should say in our deluxe portion.

44:00 - So first thing we are going to do is apply our deluxe portion

44:03 - to the wallet.

44:07 - So I'm going to use a spacer here.

44:09 - This tool is called a loop iron.

44:13 - Normally

44:14 - in a setting where I have a bunch of these to do,

44:17 - I have this already set up and I would just roll right through them,

44:19 - but I'm only doing one here at a time.

44:21 - So the loop iron is going to be placed here because again, it is the

44:28 - correct.

44:35 - The correct spacing.

44:38 - So remove my glue tape.

44:47 - It is a little bit off the corner to.

44:50 - No one will ever see this, but.

44:55 - We want it to be gone.

44:56 - Okay.

44:58 - Three quarters of an inch loop iron into place

45:01 - with the square.

45:04 - It ensures that this entire piece

45:09 - is straight.

45:15 - Okay,

45:17 - now we're going to apply our pockets

45:20 - so there's a clear left and right pocket

45:23 - straight edge straight edge

45:27 - curved.

45:28 - Go with the curves.

45:30 - So I'm going to start in the corner.

45:35 - To this corner.

45:39 - Bump it up against my

45:41 - stone.

45:42 - Press it.

45:48 - Okay I'm gonna do the exact same thing

45:50 - on the other side.

46:01 - Corner

46:03 - corner.

46:04 - I'm unable to do it on the stone this time, but I will go this way.

46:08 - Make sure everything is straight.

46:15 - Okay.

46:23 - All right, so our wallet is straight.

46:25 - Everything's in its place.

46:27 - Ready to go on a sewing machine.

46:32 - Okay, so

46:34 - before I get there, I will take my.

46:39 - Wing dividers.

46:41 - You could use a roller guide for this.

46:43 - However,

46:45 - I prefer to just use it at one time.

46:53 - Now we need to bring this whole thing

46:55 - together here.

46:58 - So roller guide out of the way.

47:01 - I want to position where my first stitches

47:04 - here.

47:08 - Back tack.

47:31 - Okay.

47:31 - Same as it was every time before.

47:33 - Clipped our threads, I try to pull it onto the back

47:36 - side of the wallet.

47:42 - Melt.

47:49 - This side won't pull through.

47:53 - Not a problem.

48:00 - Okay.

48:00 - Starting to look like a wallet now.

48:05 - Okay.

48:05 - From here.

48:09 - We're going to put a little dye

48:10 - on this section.

48:13 - Just to help finish off the edge.

48:23 - Select the pieces.

48:24 - We're now ready for our final assembly.

48:28 - Time final assembly.

48:32 - We start on this side

48:35 - mostly because it's for positioning with sewing.

48:38 - So glue tape is removed

48:40 - about this up against the edge.

48:52 - Okay.

49:01 - Okay, so this is really starting to come together.

49:02 - Here is as a wallet.

49:05 - Okay?

49:05 - I need to know exactly where I'm going to start and stop.

49:08 - So this is my start stop point right here.

49:12 - So I'm going to put a little dent in the leather.

49:18 - Okay.

49:18 - And that's where my needle will start to stitch this point.

49:22 - So like we spoke about before

49:24 - there's a good in the bad side in the sewing machine stitch pattern.

49:27 - We want to make sure that this is up so that we get that nice finished look

49:30 - ruler guide down.

49:35 - Okay I have my start point.

50:10 - Okay, I've got a nice stitch pattern here.

50:16 - Okay, so we're going to pull our threads.

50:17 - The inside again.

50:31 - This is a pretty critical wear point right here.

50:35 - So we want to make sure that we have backstitch that enough.

50:39 - And then this too is a pretty critical

50:42 - wear point here as well. To

50:45 - no matter how great something is everything comes apart in the end.

50:48 - So we still try to make it as the best

50:51 - that we can.

50:57 - Make sure that the stitches are

51:01 - strong in their place,

51:03 - melted at the right place.

51:07 - Altogether.

51:08 - Okay. Side one.

51:11 - We're going to sand this edge now and finish it.

51:27 - In. Kind of.

51:56 - Hi, folks.

51:56 - We're here at our retail store, located in Kingston, Pennsylvania.

52:00 - We've brought our finished

52:02 - bifold wallet with an ID window.

52:04 - As you can see here, the bison leather and the anthracite color inside

52:08 - truly is a beautiful match together.

52:11 - Ready to hold all of your

52:14 - cash or lack of cash?

52:18 - Business cards, credit cards, everything neatly into one.

52:22 - Beautifully handcrafted in Pennsylvania product, Devall

52:26 - leather is again, located in Kingston, Pennsylvania.

52:31 - We also have a retail store in Clarks Summit, Pennsylvania as well,

52:34 - and you can shop online anytime 24 hours a day on our website.

52:37 - Deval.

52:38 - Other work.com I invite everyone to come and enjoy the wonderful products

52:43 - that we make and the the craftsmanship of the team that works for me.

52:47 - We couldn't be more proud to call Pennsylvania our home of,

52:51 - operations. And.